Thursday, February 24, 2011

Collette Negroni toile - fitting issues

I loved constructing this shirt.  Loved it.   Flat fell seams around the armhole - I thought they would be hard and it would look dreadful inside, but they're so damned professional.   its almost a crime to wear this the right way around - I want the world to adore the insides.

But that's kind of where the love affair ends right now.   Fitting issues that I'm not sure how to resolve.

Is my hubby's physique imperfect?   He's got this whole dropped shoulder thing happening on his right side.  How come I've never noticed it before?  

So apparently I need to do a sloping shoulder adjustment on his bodgy side.  But that doesnt really address the tightness under the arms.  I'd like to make the whole armhole a little bigger for him.  If I drop it by (say) half an inch on each side, then I would have to add the same amount to the sleeve proper.   How do I increase the sleeve head but keep the same shape?  Do I kind of slice up the pattern with lines that radiate up towards the top of the sleeve and then fan them apart a smidgen so across the whole lot I have an increase of an inch? 

Rachel, I fancy yours looks a bit similar in the tightness under the arms factor - I've stolen your husband for a moment, hope that's ok with you and him !!
Have you addressed this issue in your muslin ?  

I wonder if the sloping shoulder adjustment (as Peter advised you to do) will give more room in the armhole ?

Friggetty frig frig.   It was all going so swimmingly too !


Tuesday, February 22, 2011

Colette Negroni toile/muslin - I don't stuff around !

I've hit the ground running on this one!

 My pattern only arrived this morning and already I'm up to attaching the sleeve. Only I'm not sure I can cope with a flat fell seam as its 10pm and I'm a bit tired so thinking I won't tempt fate and risk having a stuff up.

The story thus far:

Toile fabric was an op shop find - 2.3 metres x 114cms and if you want to make this shirt in medium, let me tell you - its not enough!   Nearly... but just not quite.   So the facings are in a contrast cotton.  And why should I make two pockets?   No need really.

I'm pleased with the way its coming together (knowing its a toile).

Things that make me unhappy are:
 catching up the body fabric when attaching the collar.
the attachment of the back inside yoke to the shoulder seam has been constructed very sloppily.  Damn me.    This did confuse me somewhat and I mistakenly attached the facing to the yoke instead of the yoke to the shoulder seam the first time and did the whole burrito thing and pulled it out.  It was tres confusement.  But after unpicking it and doing it the right way it made a bit more sense.  Let me tell you though, its hard to roll a burrito up again when you have to unpick that seam.  The whole exercise was a leap of faith and the person that invented the method must have been able to see into the 4th dimension!

But lets not focus on the negative.

I have happy news too, 
my other side is PERFECT !

and my button loop is too cute for words
All in all I'd say a nicely productive day.

Well, for some us it was, others spent the entire day sleeping in a laundry basket.

Negroni sew along

On the very day that Peter announces the Sew Along is over:  my pattern arrives !

Oh well, its still been interesting to watch others' progress and pick up tips. 

My fabric arrived yesterday too although this wasn't vital to the sewalong as I'm making a toile first.
But if you fancy a view - here is the fabric - a Kaffe Fasset woven stripe in Raspberry and some contrast Kaffe Fassett Millefiore for under the cuffs and collar.  Both $8.98 a yard from   With postage they cost $51.87 and the pattern was $23 with postage.  So it better be a nice shirt, that's all I'm sayin'.

wish me luck with my toile


Saturday, February 12, 2011

Work in progress, kaleidescope baby quilt

I spent 6 hours today making this beauty:
Using the Film in the Fridge tutorial, not that there's anything unique about it, but I do like the consistent centre diagonal.  It brings together order from chaos!
I started with A3 sheets and sliced off the excess making a square that was 11 3/4" square.
Marked the diagonal and a line 3/4 inch each side so I could have a 1 1/2 inch central strip.
started adding to the central strip bit by bit
Until I had 16.
Then I had to tear away all those strips of paper from the back.  The paper is perforated from the stitching, so its not too hard, but it took aaages because you still have to be gentle especially at the beginning and end of seams. 

Then I pieced it together  - all those block edges were stretchy bias by now. 
Until I ended up with this !

And this
Which I dumped in the bin, even though it was such a lovely rainbow bunch of scraps.  Too pretty.   nope.   bin.

Its a baby quilt for a colleague of my husband who is due in 3 weeks.  So I just have to quilt and bind (with the same red as the central diagonal, just to bring it all together.

My daughter said 'mum, that might make the baby go blind' !  I hope not!


and for a bit of scale, here's the ubiquitous cat on quilt photo

Thursday, February 3, 2011

I'm ba-a-a-ck ! With a Simplicity 2960

It has been a bit of a hiatus.  Not a sewing one, but nothing really worthy of sharing.

School holidays have just finished and this week I sent off my eldest daughter to high school and the younger to her final year of primary.  Here they are going off to Kindy/Year 1 back in Feb 2005 (i've been politely requested not to post the off to school shot for this year :  fair enough)
I'm currently working on a Simplicity pattern because its been SWELTERING in Sydney.  Over thirty degrees day and night (our house just won't cool down!).  So I thought this pattern would be the ticket for throwing on a breezy summer dress.

I'm making view C, the top in the bottom left, but with a view to lengthening it into an above knee dress.  I'm using an op shopped slippery loud paisley polyester for the toile.   Sorry if it burns your eyes.
 Its a pretty easy pattern to put together but I have had some major issues.  These pix taken before the addition of the casing and elastic that make it fitted under the bust. 

Sleeve holes are heaps too tight.  When I first tried it on I nearly dislocated my shoulder trying to get it off.

The whole thing seems to be a bit too fitted for what I want as a loose dress, so I'm going up a size for the real  version.
Look at that back !   No ease whatsoever.
I'm bunching it here to see what the front looks like.   I don't know, will that little insert ruckle up like it does here?  Maybe not.  But its all a bit too high, I'm going to lengthen the bodice by another inch.

I'm hoping the maternity look kind of doesn't happen in the final cut too !

I'm still waiting for my Colette pattern to do the men's shirt sewalong, and my vintage sew along has stalled too.

Thankfully now that kids are back at school I can get back into it.


oh, and here's my at my office in my Vogue 5032.  Perfect work dress.