Thursday, February 24, 2011

Collette Negroni toile - fitting issues

I loved constructing this shirt.  Loved it.   Flat fell seams around the armhole - I thought they would be hard and it would look dreadful inside, but they're so damned professional.   its almost a crime to wear this the right way around - I want the world to adore the insides.

But that's kind of where the love affair ends right now.   Fitting issues that I'm not sure how to resolve.

Is my hubby's physique imperfect?   He's got this whole dropped shoulder thing happening on his right side.  How come I've never noticed it before?  

So apparently I need to do a sloping shoulder adjustment on his bodgy side.  But that doesnt really address the tightness under the arms.  I'd like to make the whole armhole a little bigger for him.  If I drop it by (say) half an inch on each side, then I would have to add the same amount to the sleeve proper.   How do I increase the sleeve head but keep the same shape?  Do I kind of slice up the pattern with lines that radiate up towards the top of the sleeve and then fan them apart a smidgen so across the whole lot I have an increase of an inch? 

Rachel, I fancy yours looks a bit similar in the tightness under the arms factor - I've stolen your husband for a moment, hope that's ok with you and him !!
Have you addressed this issue in your muslin ?  

I wonder if the sloping shoulder adjustment (as Peter advised you to do) will give more room in the armhole ?

Friggetty frig frig.   It was all going so swimmingly too !



  1. Woo hoo! Michael is famous!

    Here are the two ways I'm fixing the arm tightness issue:
    1. Letting out the side/underarm seams 1cm each side.
    2. Doing the minor sloping shoulder adjustment Peter advised.

    I haven't gotten to it yet, and Michael is off to the USA on saturday for just over a week, so won't be able to provide any proof that my tactics work for a while. I'll look forward to yours!

  2. Dear "SRH", you left comments on my blog...Adventures in Oz, the Mystery Monday.

    Could you please, email me? I would like to send you some info. =)


  3. Oh, I am working on my husband's Negroni right now and experiencing the exact same underarm tightness in the back. Except my guy really doesn't have a sloping shoulder issue. Rather, I did a square shoulder adjustment to correct fit on the front of his shirt. So, if I deepen the back armhole, how do I effectively add to the armhole. Would love to know how you corrected. Thanks.