Sunday, January 16, 2011

Butterick 5032 - a swayback fix and a disaster

I unpicked the back waist seam of my latest 5032 today, so that I could re-sew it taking a wide bite into the top of the back skirt.   I got slightly carried away with my seam ripper though.  Damn me and my gung ho attitude.
Nothing that a little darning won't fix.
So I think I've solved my 'do I wear a belt with this?' dilemma - don't you ?!

So the swayback done, the centre back seam brought in a wedge to deal with the gaping across the back, and the hem pinned in place.   Looks like this might be on the home run !
I may have been able to pull another few millimetres up on the sway back, but I daren't unpick it again.   Is this good enough ? 

A reminder of what it looked like before:
Yeah, stuff it !   This is well good enough.


Saturday, January 15, 2011

Butterick 5032 - again!

I made this dress ages ago and wear it all the time, its such an easy dress to grab and chuck on.   I thought I'd make it again with a very dark brown stretch mystery fabric that I scored in an op shop.

This is it at the moment, just needing a few final tweaks before I pronounce it perfect.

I moved the zip from the centre back to the side and used Gertie's side lapped zipper tutorial.  The tutorial was comprehensive and it all went together well but I fancy the lap sticks out a bit and changes the sillhouette.   I put it down my right side, which I think is the wrong side, you can see it on the left side of the photos above.  Its not a deal breaker, but I'm not that thrilled.  I'm sure I'll tackle this dress again and will try again for the side zipper as the back zip finishes in a very awkward spot in the middle of your back -  you know that spot you can never reach to apply sunscreen?  That's where the zip finishes. 

Anyway, the back of this dress has proved to be troublesome:
You can see here I need to do a sway back adjustment.  I know I did one the last time I made the dress, but I mistakenly thought that I had altered my pattern piece and so I just sewed it up thinking it would be perfect.   Guess I didnt!

And another issue.  Moving the zip from the centre back to the side has caused this huge gape-age issue when I pull my shoulders towards each other from behind.
So I reckon to tackle that problem, I'll just bring in the centre back seam a bit more.

And I won't bother with the back slit, will just sew it completely closed and hem it.  There's more than enough room in this dress to move about.

I'm reasonably happy with it.  I think it needs a belt or something though.  Its a bit big and boring without it.  Thoughts ?

And I have to give a shout out to Sherry's fantastic darts tutorial here.   I'll never mark a dart again!   I used a hybrid method that worked for me sticking a pin out at the apex of the dart and notching the seam edge.  Took it straight from the cutting table to the sewing machine and ran them through straight away.  

Oh, and it had never occurred to me to make the cape before, but loved these versions on Sew  Retro.   I'm gonna make me one of them too. 


Friday, January 14, 2011

New vintage project : Australian Home Journal 9073

I'm participating in the Vintage Sewalong and thought I'd double post in case that blog isnt on your radar.

Time to tackle this Aust Home Journal teenage frock !  This was my first vintage pattern purchase (ever!) and I freaked out at the lack  of markings on the pattern pieces, so stowed it away thinking oh well, the cover is cute to look at. 
Fast forward a few years and plenty of toiles and adjustments under my belt and then this Vintage Sewalong comes along and I figured it's time to revisit this pattern.  Its a very simple design and both front and back pieces are cut on the fold, with the zip in the side seam.

The pattern is for a 24inch waist, so I thought I'd measure the pieces with the darts 'darted' and the seam allowances marked.
They were both around the 7inch mark, so x 4  = 28 inches, which is my waist (without any ease of course)!.

Anyway, I figured I'd just make this up and see where to go from there.

Cue a cute print scored yesterday from the Salvos on the highway - 2.9 metres x 90cm wide for a measly $2.
Perfect for a toile.  Except maybe a but busy to see details in photos.  Fine for 'real life' though.
It's a bit tight and the bust dart goes right up and over my boobs, and the side dart is too high.   So I plan to push those down the pattern about 1 to 2 inches.   But the neckline and sleeve hole seems to be ok !

I'm thinking for the back, I could place the pattern piece on the fold at the top of the piece, and pivot it so the bottom part is about 1centimetre in from the fold, thereby giving a bit of extra fabric across the back ?  Is that a plan ?   Its tightest across the shoulder blades, but fits ok at the top of my shoulders, so don't just want to make the whole piece bigger.  I could increase the dart suppression (new word to the vocab here - thanks to this fabulous dart posting by Sherry!) at the base of the dart to take up the extra fabric?  Your views?


Saturday, January 8, 2011

Success on McCalls 5661 and not one but TWO sew alongs !

After the 2nd toile, this blouse came together ok.  I did a sway back adjustment and skimmed a wedge off the shoulder seam on the front shell and facing.   It was a pretty easy fix to make it fit well.  Not a bad pattern and a good one for the stash as it has a few different looks.

Maybe you need the flash at night for this fabric to finally work.  You definitely get a better idea of colours from these pix:
The skirt is obviously WRONG, as is the belt,but going for the idea here,  you know, casual belted...
Anyway, I'm happy with this and now I'm moving right along.
I joined the vintage sew along recently and picked a very standard 50's style dress with the gathered skirt to a fitted bodice.  I havent even started the toile yet, it will surely need enlarging as it's a teenage frock.   But this is the look (going for the cap sleeve look in the green frock) :

And I joined Peter from Male Pattern Boldness, who is doing a shirt sew along using a Collette Pattern to make the shirt:  Negroni.
I did notice that Sewing Pattern Review has all Simplicity patterns at $2.99 until midnight on 9 Jan which even with international postage included is still cheaper even than a 50% off sale in Australia, so hoping to pick up a few patterns there, you know, to built up the old stash!
Loving this 3673
or the pants in 3688
and even though it isn't retro, not minding this one 2247:
hmm.   I'm sure I'll find some to purchase, don't you ?!


Sunday, January 2, 2011

McCalls 5661 - toile stage - fitting issues...

This project was prompted by this fabric - silk brought back from India by a fabulous friend who knew that fabric would float my boat the most.
It is hard to believe from this picture, but the silk is a deep emerald green shot with navy blue.   Its truly divine.

So I needed something to highlight the shotness and as it was only 1 metre, it had to be a small project.  Said friend has now been briefed that 1.5 metres is a better length for fabric purchases for me.  She's going to the States next month so here's hoping she pays heed to my request! 

I settled on the singlet style top with the gathers at the neckline (in lime green on this pattern).
Its a palmer pletch pattern that has info on making fba adjustments, has swayback adjustment lines on the pattern and all.   I quite like that all that information is there.  But I'm not really using it !

My personal bugbear is that the neckline is a lot higher in the garment than shown on the cover.  Its quite restrictive and stifling.   Toile pix:

tucked in
hanging out
and the back.

Yes, swayback adjustment is in order.  

I think I'll drop the neckline down about one inch. And go up one size.

So not an instant success but thankfully only minor tweaking involved.